Paris. The City of Light. And stuff.
It is gorgeous here, there's no doubt about that. Each block prettier than the next - an oddly like New Orleans Square at Disneyland (what? I've never been to New Orleans, okay, I make comparisons with what I know).
We arrived by train from England a few days ago. I had checked information on the hotel website about how far it was from the train station: 1.5 kilometers. Accordingly, when the cabbie took about 85 turns and let the meter run to over 8 euros, we knew we had experienced the first quintessentially Parisian moment: taking it up the butt from a cabbie. It's more than a hobby for them, these guys are professionals. I have a feeling it is an art form to which some exhibit in some dark corner of the Louvre has been erected.
After checking into our hotel we took an after dark stroll down to Notre Dame. It was misty and cold - though the Parisian cold was balmy compared to the warmest day in Ireland. We found a corner restaurant in what was likely a touristy area and had our first Parisian dinner. And our first introduction to Parisian service. In a way, it's probably more polite not to slap down the check the moment a patron's fork hits the plate. Yet the pendulum seems to have swung a bit too far in the other direction now.
Tuesday morning we decided to get our culture on and visit the Louvre.
Tuesday morning is also when I learned my first French sentence not related to ordering food.
Le musee du Louvre est ferme le mardi.So we took a walk instead. A very, very cold walk.
I should not have thought so quickly that France was going to be warmer than Ireland. Tuesday was very, very cold indeed. We walked past all the good stuff though, right down to the Eiffel Tower.
I never thought I was afraid of heights but during riding on the two elevators to the top of the Tower was a bit much even for me. Once I was on the top I was okay - but the journey inspired more fear than awe. It was too misty out to see much, but the view was impressive nonetheless (this morning, of course, dawned clear and sunny, but what can you do).
During our walk, we kept careful watch for the dinner <em>bateaux</em> we had seen the night before. We'd checked some websites, but none looked as nice as what we had seen glide gracefully under the Ponte Neuf the night before. Finally, just beside the Eiffel Tower we saw the Bateaux Parisian dock and decided they must be the ones we wanted. We booked two spots for that night's cruise and braved the Metro system to get back to the hotel.
After a nap and a snack of bread, cheese, wine, and nutella (yummmmm, Nutellaaaaa), we dressed for the cruise and asked the front desk to call us a cab.
Note: In Paris, unlike any other civilized city I have ever visited or in which I have ever lived, if you call a cab, you will be charged from the moment the cab answers your call until the moment you step out at your destination. Also, the hotel, it seems, will not call your room to say "hey, your cab is here." Nor, should you happen to go down to the lobby to wait, will the person who called the cab for you, pause in her phone call to say "hey, your cab is here," until at least 10 minutes have passed. And so what should have been about a 7 Euro fare was about 20 Euros.
You know, I can totally appreciate that things in cities are expensive. I can even deal with the worthless American Dollar these days. I don't even mind horribly that as a tourist, I'm going to get worked a bit around the edges. But that cab policy is just bullshit. People in this city should revolt. I thought that's what they were good at.
The cruise itself, however, was worth the fare. Lovely, calm, good music, good food, plenty of wine, couldn't-be-beat scenery. Too expensive - but how often are you in Paris, really.
More on the cruise, the sights, and the accompanying photos soon . . . . time to go see if the hotel has fixed the hot water (that would be the absence thereof) so we can get the hell out of here).
And we're back Since there's no hot water, seemed foolish to quit in the middle. This is just an overview of course, so I'll probably blog with more detail with the pictures that I post later. The sketchy net access has me experimenting with emailing this post to the site because I can write it offline and then just shoot it over so as to conserve the precious few minutes of access I have left.
I'll talk more about the cruise when I post photos from it. Suffice to say, it has been my favorite thing about the city so far.
Yesterday it rained. Not hard, but persistently all day. It was slightly less bitterly cold, but far from warm - perfect weather for visiting a museum.
The Louvre is open on Wednesdays, thank goodness, and we and the rest of the city had flocked to I.M. Pei's glass pyramid to beat our way into the world famous - and vast - museum. I've been to the Smithsonian on particularly busy days and it's no picnic. The Louvre was no different. I'd forgotten how nice it is to have the time to visit such things on off-days. I don't think the Louvre has any off-days, though I'd have been grateful for a day on which school trips are prohibited. There are only so many vacant-eyed French high schoolers you can trip over before you get a bit fatigued.
We saw the Winged Victory, the Mona Lisa, the Venus, yadda yadda. No, I keed. It was a great museum. A very large great museum. Unlike most modern museums, this one had much more natural lighting - windows, not skylights, though it had those as well. It made it impossible to enjoy a wall of art from one position since almost every position was guaranteed to cast glare on some section of the artwork.
Particularly amusing to Rob were the numerous "no photography or video" signs situated next to hordes of folks holding their cell phones up to snap pictures of the Mona Lisa or other sensitive works of priceless art. Tired-looking guards would amble up and say "no photos" and then wander away. Ineffective.
Presumably, the point of the prohibition is that flashbulbs (how long since they were bulbs, really) would damage the light-sensitive paintings. Digital photography - and especially cell phones - make turning off the flash pretty damn easy (even film cameras weren't difficult). So then why the fuss? It isn't like people in America traveling to Paris will say "you know, we saw Rob's camera phone photo of the Mona Lisa, do we really need to go see it? Ha! The Louvre can do without my 8.50 Euros." Hardly. So you can't take photos in large parts of the Louvre, but really, you can, so knock yourselves out.
We put in a good three and a half hours there and barely scratched the surface. Exhausted from battling the school groups, we rushed out for some air and to check out Notre Dame in the day time and to see the inside.
It was full of people too - but no surprise. It was beautiful, of course. Except I think they were tuning the organ and so the sanctuary (insert hunchback voice here - sanctuarrrry) was filled with discordant tones and scales that had Rob looking in every shadowy corner for some goblin to pop out. If it was a form of music it wasn't one I had ever heard before.
Wandering past the many side chapels I thought about what it means to visit places of religious significance. There were signs requesting silence in the sacred space. Few people complied. Though, to be fair, in such a hall, the combined hushed whispers of hundreds of visitors make quite a noise - so perhaps people were trying to be silent. But I wondered what being there meant for non-Catholics as opposed to Catholics. I explained a few of the things I did (like lighting the candle) to Rob and wondered if the slight discomfort I felt with the flash photography of people I (probably prejudicially) presumed not to be Catholic bothered me in a similar way to the way Muslims feel about the occupation of some of their sacred places in the Middle East (there's no way to qualify and hedge that sentence in a politically correct way, so you're just going to have to go with it). It wasn't that I was terribly offended, but it seemed like it was harder for me to concentrate on appreciating the holiness of one of the world's great Cathedrals with so many around me treating it like just another stop on the Grayline tour. Or maybe they weren't treating it thusly and I should get over it. Hard to say.
And now I will pause in the story - it's time to check out - late and unshowered because civilized folk do not suffer cold showers, they wait. I hope the hotel cuts us a deal for the lack of essential services. But they'll probably charge extra.
Up next, the rest of France, including our Parisian Mexican feast.