George Skelton writes on the death of Wing Fat, son of Frank Fat, of the restaurant by the same name.
In it's heyday, Frank Fat's may as well have had voting buttons installed on it's tables - but with the passage of tough lobbying restrictions, term limits, and "stiff drunken driving laws" (okay, that's a positive thing), Fat's isn't what it was when legislators cut deals on cocktail napkins.
Some say the food isn't good - I disagree. It's probably the only Chinese place I really like - honey walnut prawns, the New York steak, and, of course, banana cream pie. My inner political nerd loves to go there and try to feel connected to old school California politics.
And no other restaurant that I know of can really get away with neon pink lighting.